Friday, November 2, 2007
A visual document of Gastricolium III
The Old Gastrinauts and the new member, the Gastricoach prepared to start their official duties.
The smoked fish was served.
The party started.
A Gastrinaut was possesed by Beelzebub.
Gastrichaos ensued.
After a short break, to recover our health, honor and finances, we will announce a Gastricolium IV, where pumpkins won't be thrown onto the street. Stay tuned!
Three Gastronauts walk into a bistro . . .
The first thing noteworthy about Stixs is the line to the cashiers. A jumbled mess of patrons blocks the entrance and starts lunch with the confusion of a routed army. We imagine this problem will be solved as soon as enough people have tried the food, and the lines disappear.
Stixs Bistro has a gimmick. Everything is served on a stick. A protein is impaled on a stick, sauced, and placed neatly over a bed of starch. For example a Greek tuna skewer promises to be something delightfully Mediterranean, served over couscous. I suppose that the marketers who came up with this menu are aware that couscous is not common in Greek cuisine, but they just assume we don’t know the difference between Greece and all those non-European countries surrounding the Mediterranean. The reality of the Greek tuna skewer was disappointing. The tuna was cooked until the waitress thought it was chicken. The stale couscous tasted like crap. The “Greek” sauce tasted like something that once said “Hidden Valley” on the side of its plastic squirt bottle.
The Argentinian Chimichurri platter featured a skewer of steak, red potato, mushroom and onion served over a bed of mashed potatoes with a creamed chimichurri sauce. The tough, chewy, well-done steak seemed to be boiled. The red potatoes were raw in the middle. The only thing enjoyable about this meal was the serving of mashed potatoes that were clearly of the dried flaked variety (fucking potatoes again!?!?). These were, thankfully, able to stave off the hunger perpetuated by this unpalatable meal.
Here is an interesting aside about raw potatoes, something that could really earn this slop house they title of “Styx Bistro.” Potatoes are a member of the nightshade family. They contain toxic compounds, called glycoalkaloids, that cooking partly destroys. Side effects of glycoalkaloid consumption may include headaches, diarrhea, and cramps. In rare cases glycoalkaloid poisoning can lead to coma and even death. Cook the potatoes.
“If you think it is reasonable to pay $6.75 for three pieces of "cajun" shrimp, two pieces of undercooked corn on a cob, and two pieces of uncooked potatoes served on a stick with a mayo sauce on the side, then your mother was a hamster and your father smelt of elderberries,” said one senior member of Gastricolium.
If you eat at Stixs, you better fucking love food on a stick, because that is the only thing this place has going for it.
The Gastronauts
Gastricolium III: post mortem
Bacchus, riding a cow and inspiring debauchery and madness, the bakcheia, pursues each Gastricolium. For the first Gastricolium, Bacchus merely passed late in the evening. For the second he stopped in after the main course. For the third however he arrived on time and sat with the Gastrinauts inspiring chaos and delirium on a scale not seen since the Gasticolii of yore. A portal to hell opened and Lucifer’s chief lieutenant, Beelzebub, entered the kitchen by way of his avatar the fly. He tempted us all with gluttony and drove us to insanity. He flew down my throat and for a while possessed my thoughts directly.
We have recovered and exorcised the demons of last Saturday. Only a few of Beelzebub’s minions still buzz around my kitchen. I would like to thank all those in attendance. We hope to throw Bacchus and Beelzebub off our trail by abandoning the regular schedule of previous Gastricolii. The date of the next one will remain a mystery.
Monday, October 29, 2007
On Some Qualities of the Gastrinauts
If Whistler meant that all good cooks drink to excess, his quip is only superficially amusing, and is part of the grim picture drawn by statistics which show that in many great prisons there are more cooks than there are representatives of any other one profession. Most cooks, it would seem, are misunderstood wretches, ill-housed, dyspeptic, with aching broken arches. They turn more eagerly than any other artists to the bottle, the needle, and more vicious pleasures; they grow irritable; finally they seize upon the nearest weapon, which if they are worth their salt is a long knife kept sharp as lightening . . . and they are in San Quentin.
On the other hand, some of the best cups I have ever downed were in the company of good cooks, men (and a few women) who were peaceful and self-assured, confident that they were artists among their sincere admirers.
-M.F.K. Fisher
Friday, October 26, 2007
Gastricolium III
We are entering the weekend of our third Gastricolium. We are all slightly shaken by this week as Cesar had to get a year older and for some reason this meant everyone had to try to kill themselves with tequila. One young lady got so drunk that she popped a blood vessel in her eye while puking. I wont say who she is because it was also her birthday, and she is getting married in a year. Kevin was wise to stay home.
But we, the Gastronauts, are undeterred. Cesar is older and, therefore, better looking than ever. Kevin is more virile and potent. I have taken 5000% of the USRDA of vitamin C and will soon begin brining the fish. Prepare for tomorrow.
Come to #### Duval St at 7:00 PM. Bring wine and pray to Gastrea.
Love,
Dylan
Thursday, October 25, 2007
On Gastricolite's Reaction
Utcumque ferculum, eximii et bene noti saporis, appositum fuerit, fiat autopsia convivae; et nisi facies ejus ac oculi vertantur ad acstasism, notetus ut indignus.
This has been translated by the sworn translator of the grand council as follows: Whenever a dish of distinguished and well-known savor is served, the host will serve his guests attentively, and will condemn as unworthy all those whose faces do not express their rapture.
-Brillat-Savarin
Sunday, October 21, 2007
Vatel - Movie Review
This excellent production focuses on the kitchen drama around entertaining Louis XIV with a "small feast" on the country side. To please the Sun King, the steward Vatel is determined to provide a week long festival with the most exquisite dishes. Love, death and unicorn meat are all featured on this highly recommended film.
On Gourmandism
Gourmandism is an impassioned, considered, and habitual preference for whatever pleases the taste. [...] it deserves praise and encouragement. Physically, it is the result as well as the proof of the perfect state of health of our digestive organs. Morally, it is an implicit obedience of the rules of the Creator, who, having ordered us to eat in order to live, invite us to do so with appetite, encourages us with flavor, and rewards us with pleasure.
-Brillat-Savarin
The Gastrosexual: Dessert
Dessert should be modest and discrete. Dessert should be of the highest quality but should never undermine the meal. Similarly in lovemaking, the post coital dessert should be relaxed and unpretentious. Even so the eater or the lovemaker would be remiss to forget dessert.
Take time after the main course to breathe in the fading smells of the dinner. There may not be too much to say at this moment and digestion is peaking. The blood is no longer in your brain because much has been devoted to your stomach and loins. Enjoy these moments and let your mind return before eating dessert.
Once thoughts are able to roost in your mind again it is time for dessert. The swimming ecstasy of the main event is passed. Cuddle with your lover and feel the touch of each other’s nakedness without the mind wrenching need to fuck. Dessert will bring flavors to the palate without the distraction of hunger. It is time to enjoy the bitterness of coffee, the tartness of limes, the pungency of cheese and the sweetness of flan.
Dessert marks the end of the meal. No needs are left and the cerebral experience of taste and touch finalize the evening.
Thursday, October 18, 2007
Menu for Gastricolium III
start: Salmon mousse
soup: Garlic soup
main: Six times sauced, smoked fish
salad: Blanched lettuce salad
end: Assorted cheese
The wine for this meal should begin light and become darker and redder throughout the meal, finishing with a deep red that can withstand the assault of pungent cheeses. Ask the guys at Vino Vino if you don't have something already in mind. They have unique bottles and are quite knowledgeable.
We will break down the bottles as follows:
Kevin's guests will buy for the start: Chardonnay or some complex white, not sweet.
Cesar's guests will buy for the main: Pinot Noir or Pinot Grigio, a delicate red or robust white. No oak. This is very important, as the wood in the smoked fish and the wood in the wine will do battle in your mouth, the results of which will be dire and devastating.
Dylan's guests will buy for the cheese: Big and red.
Love,
Dylan
On the Benefits of Fish
-Brillat-Savarin, p. 91, The Physiology of Taste
Tuesday, October 16, 2007
Toast of Gastricolium II
-Brillat-Savarin
The Gastrosexual
It is no coincidence or cute literary device that eating and fucking are related. Both experiences can bring primal joy. We eat to survive so that we may fuck and make baby eating machines who will grow into full sized fucking machines and send off our DNA packets, on towards evolutionary oblivion. But we don’t have to approach sex and eating like monkeys, at least not all the time.
The joy from sex and food are fleeting. I can eat and fuck all day long, but tomorrow I will be hungry and horny.
In eating and sex it is best to take your time. A rushed meal will not bring nearly the enjoyment of a slow and varied meal. Start with an appetizer, the foreplay of eating. A little soup after that is a nice way to whet the palate. Eat the salad and have a break. Flirt and talk, the main course is coming. Return to the table and pour another glass of wine. The conversation has peaked and the odors of the main course fill the room. Dining commences. Some will dive headlong into the final meat, while others deliberately and slowly savor the dish to its end. Dinner is over and if everything was done well, satisfaction is assured.
May you all have fine ingredients, meticulous preparation and an adventurous spirit!
Crawfish Bisque
Shellfish Stock
Place the shells from 3 lbs. of shrimp (or other availble crustacean) into a stock pot along with 2 or 3 chopped carrots, 3 chopped ribs of celery, 4 or 5 smashed cloves of garlic, a bouquet of parsely stems, thyme, and bay leaf. Cover with water and add salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer for 15 minutes. Remove from heat and strain the solids, reserving both the liquid and shells separately. Return stock to heat and continue to reduce until a nice aroma and flavor develop.
Bisque
In a stock pot, heat clarified butter, then add the reserved shells. Saute for several minutes, constantly stirring. Add finely chopped yellow onion, celery, scallions and saute 8 to 10 minutes. Add salt and pepper and cayenne. Next add chopped parsley and thyme and saute for an additional 3 to 4 minutes, followed by minced garlic for an additional minute. Add flour to the mixture, constantly stirring for several minutes until it is thickened and there are no lumps. Once it is smooth, add the reserved stock and stir thoroughly to fully incorporate. Using an immersion blender, begin to puree the vegetables and shrimp shells. This must be done in shifts, with the soup being stirred in between and the blade of the immersion blender being cleaned and shells untangled from it. Blend until solids are pulverized. Season with salt and pepper and more cayenne. Add white wine, approximately a whole bottle. Bring up to a boil, then reduce heat and let simmer for at least 30 minutes, stirring frequently. Make sure the alcohol cooks off. Once a good aroma and flavor develop, remove from heat to strain. At this stage the bisque has been done correctly if its color is an brownish-orange in appearance and the aroma makes it unbearable for you not to taste your work. The taste should bring you to your knees. Strain the soup through a sieve and return to a low flame to keep warm.
Meanwhile, in a separate pan, saute 3 lbs. of peeled crawfish tails in clarified butter. Make sure the tails are washed, but try to not to clean off too much of the yellow fat. You will want to include this with the tails for extra flavor. Once thoroughly heated, slide the tails into the bisque and stir to mix. Allow the soup to cook for an additional 15 minutes over low heat, stirring frequently for the flavors to mix. Serve into soup cups or mugs and enjoy.
Monday, October 15, 2007
A visual document of Gastricolium II
Fish was butchered.
And brothed.
Shrimp was peeled.
And vegetables cooked.
Brillat-Savarin was read.
Wines served.
Toasts toasted.
And food was served.
Stay tunned for Gastricolium III, where new artistic expressions will find their way into delighted stomachs.
Friday, October 12, 2007
Tostones with Mango Pico de Gallo
Tostones
Wash 3 or 4 green plantains (very very green!!!). Peel and cut into cylinders of about 1" height. Deep fry until golden. Use a plate to smash the cylinder into disks. Prepare some salt water with crushed garlic. Dip the disks into the garlic water, and deep fry again until golden. Serve while still hot.
Mango Pico de Gallo
Chop 3 mangos, one purple onion, 6 leaves of recao (culantro), and 3 jalapeños. Add salt and pepper to taste. Mix. To be used as dip for the tostones.
Wednesday, October 10, 2007
Inivitation to Gastricolium II - Saturday 13th, 2007
7pm Saturday, October 13th, 2007
Kevin's house.
Menu:
Inspiration was drawn from the food and culture of the greatest city on the Gulf Coast. Crustaceans are featured at the forefront in several of these dishes, though we will also see the appearance of pompano, pecans, chicory, alcohol, and flame.
1. Crab Cakes with Remoulade Sauce
2. Crawfish Bisque
3. Pecan-Encrusted Mozzarella with Greens and Onion Marmalade
4. Pompano en Papillote - pompano cooked in a sauce with various shellfish
5. Cafe Brulot Diabolique and Key Lime Pie
So that the guest is aware:
Each guest is asked to bring one bottle of wine that pairs well with the food. When pairing wines with Creole cuisine, it is common to choose sweeter wines due to the misconception this cuisine is hot and spicy. This is because many food lovers confuse that which is Creole with Cajun, its country cousin from southeastern Louisiana. Please permit a brief digression. Creole is most decidedly classical, not rustic, and urban, not rural. While Cajun food is an adaptation of French provincial cooking, Creole is blend of traditions that could only arise from the mixing of European, African, Caribbean, and American culinary cultures found in New Orleans over the past 300 years. At the foundations of a Creole feast are these things: the permeating influence of the city's classical French heritage, the fruits de mer that make southern Louisiana the most biologically diverse coastline in the continental US, and the Creole chef's propensity for showmanship both with flavor and presentation. That being said, tell your local wine-seller about the menu to elicit a wine recommendation, or if you decide to trust me, take my suggestion.
Wine Suggestions: Chardonnay (not too sweet, this goes famously with both crab and fish), Pinot Noir (delicate enough not to obstruct flavor, red enough to have some flavor), Zinfandel or Primitivo (pairs with almost anything with frightening success).
Dress Code will be strictly enforced.
Please read below for clarification of the rules.
Respectfully,
your neighbor, the goat.
Tuesday, October 2, 2007
A visual document of Gastricolium I
First, we went to several markets, including two farmer markets, to look for the best ingredients.
We toasted in honor of Gastraea, to declare the cooking officially started.
Food was prepared with care.
And we read a passage out of Brillat-Savarin's book.
Drinks were served.
And people feasted.
Please post your comments, reactions or suggestions to Gastriculium I.
Stay tunned for Gastricolium II, where we will continue pushing the artistic expression of dinner-club cuisine.
Monday, October 1, 2007
The Saucier's Reasoning
It is in following this reasoning that I have, I dare say, created an infinite number of new things of which my books carry the indelible mark; and in order to obtain the same results, all that is necessary is a little good sense, and occupying oneself without relaxation in the progress of the science which one professes.
-Marie-Antoine Careme in his Art of French Cooking in the 19th Century.
The Roux
-From Auguste Escoffier's Guide Culinaire.
An obscure reference to the temperamental benefits of cabbage
Why is it that to those who are drunk one thing at which they are looking sometimes appears to be many?
Why is it that those who are drunk are incapable of having sexual intercourse?
Why is it that wine which is mixed but tends toward the unmixed causes a worse headache the next morning than entirely unmixed wine?
Why has wine the effect both of stupefying and of driving to a frenzy those who drink it?
Why is it that cabbage stops the ill effect of drinking?
Why are the drunken more easily moved to tears?
Why is it that the tongue of those who are drunk stumbles?
Why is it that oil is beneficial against drunkenness and sipping it enables one to continue drinking?
-From the Problemata, a work traditionally ascribed to Aristotle, the third Book of which is concerned entirely with drinking and drunkenness.
The Hangover
Hoc tu mane bibas iterum, et fuerti medicina.
If an evening of wine does you in,
More the next morning will be medicine.
-Harold McGee's On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen
Thursday, September 27, 2007
To attain the ultimate in the pleasures of the table
-Brillat-Savarin's The Physiology of TasteBut, the impatient reader may exclaim, how can one possibly assemble, in this year of grace 1825, a meal which will meet all the conditions necessary to attain the ultimate in the pleasures of the table?
I am about to answer that question. Draw near, Reader, and pay heed: it is Gasterea, the loveliest of the muses, who inspired me; I shall speak more clearly than an oracle, and my precepts will live throughout the centuries.
“Let the number of guests be no more than twelve, so that conversation may always remain general;
“Let them be so chosen that their professions will be varied, their tastes analogous, and that there be such points of contact that the odious formality of introductions will not be needed;
“Let the dinning room be more than amply lighted, the linen of dazzling cleanliness, and the temperature maintained at from sixty to sixty-eight degrees Fahrenheit;
“Let the gentlemen be witty without pretension, and the ladies charming without too much coquetry;
“Let the dishes be of exquisite quality, but limited in their number, and the wines of the first rank also, each according to its degree;
“Let the progression of the former be from the most substantial to the lightest, and of the latter from the simplest wines to the headiest;
“Let the tempo of eating be moderate, the dinner being the last affair of the day: the guests should behave like travelers who must arrive together at the same destination;
“Let the coffee be piping hot, and the liqueurs of the host’s especial choice;
“Let the drawing room which awaits the diners be large enough to hold a card table for those who cannot do without it, with enough space left for after-dinner
conversations;
“Let the guests be disciplined by the restraints of polite society and animated by the hope that the evening will not pass without its rewarding pleasures;
“Let the tea be not too strong, the toast artfully buttered, and the punch made with care;
“Let the leavetakings not begin before eleven o’clock, but by midnight let every guest be home and abed.”
If anyone has attended a party combining all these virtues, he can boast that he has known perfection, and for each of them which has been forgotten or ignored he will have experienced the less delight.
Wednesday, September 26, 2007
Invitation to Gastricolium I - Saturday 29th, 2007
7pm Saturday 29th, 2007
Cesar's house.
Menu:
The Gastrinaut was inspired by tropical flavors from the caribbean and asia minor. Emphasis in fat and sweet reinforces the connection of these cultures with a healthy diet.
- Fried Plantains with Mango Pico de Gallo
- Greens with Fried Chevre
- Catch-of-the-day Fish in a coconut curry sauce served in banana leaves, accompanied by a side of roots.
- Cheese Flan
Reminders:
Each person should bring a bottle of alcohol that would go well with the main dish.
Pairing wines with a spicy coconut sauce can be tricky, so ask the experts at your local wine shop. Here are some recommendations: Gewürztraminer, German Kabinett Riesling (dry, not too sweet), Demi-Sec Champagne.
Dress Code will be strictly enforced.
(Gastricolium rules can be found here)
Don Flan
Sunday, September 23, 2007
An invitation and a promise
For gourmet cooking is where you find it, and connoisseurs of the culinary art are found wherever there is good eating. It is not only in Europe, it is not always in the grand places, nor is it necessarily exotic or expensive. The finest food, like the best in every art, is simply a matter of excellence of preparation, imagination and performance.-Mary and Vincent Price, A Treasury of Great Recipes
Tuesday, September 18, 2007
Planning a Gastrinomicon
We are planning on recording all of our recipes, along with extensive photography of the food at all stages, and incorporating them with a semi-historic legend of Gastricolium throughout the ages of civilization. We will compile and publish this collection under the title Gastrinomicon: A True History of the Gastricolium. At least these are our plans.
Respectfully,
Your neighbor, the goat
Established Rules for a Gastricolium
The three Gastrinauts may invite three guests each for total of twelve so the number dining is not too taxing on the pocketbook of the head Gastrinaut nor on the quality of the food prepared. The guests shall be called Gastricolites. Each Gastricolite is required to bring one bottle of wine, as specified by the head Gastrinaut of the night. Those who do not comply will be reprimanded and expelled from the feast and all future feasts and banquets with no chance for redemption. All Gastricolites will be informed that it is their duty to adhere to the Dress Code. Those who do not will be humiliated and expelled. The two assisting Gastrinauts are responsible for champagne before the feast and alcoholic libations for the events following the feast. Before the feast commences, one of the Gastrinauts will read to the Gastricolites from the ancient tome of their forefathers, The Gastrinomicon. The two assisting Gastrinauts will begin serving the food. Dinner begins.....
Sunday, September 9, 2007
Second Meeting of the Gastrinauts
Don Flan
Wednesday, September 5, 2007
Hemp Seed Soup
To make 12 servings, take a pound of hemp seeds. Clean them and let them boil in a pot until they begin to open, and then add a pound of white almonds, well pounded, and then add them to the seeds. Pound it well and add a crustless bread. Distemper this with meat broth or thin chicken broth and pass through a sieve. Set it to boil in a pot over the coals far from the fire, stirring many times with a spoon. The add half a pound of sugar and half an ounce of ginger, and a bit of saffron with rosewater. Serve it with sweet spices on top.
(Excerted from "Cooking in Europe, 1250-1650", by Ken Albala)
Dining in Ancient Times
(Excerpted from "Cooking in Ancient Civilizations", by Cathy K. Kaufman)
Thursday, August 30, 2007
First Meeting of the Gastrinauts
The Art of Staying Sober
Respectfully,
Your neighbor, the goat
Buen Provecho
Wednesday, July 25, 2007
Welcome
The Gastromancer